Showing posts with label Bourbon Street. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bourbon Street. Show all posts

Saturday, May 5, 2012

All That Jazz

If you ever get a chance to go to New Orleans... GO!!!

Or is it GEAUX?
Either way, everything you have heard about the place is true.
Well, the good things.
I can’t speak for the bad.
Because I didn’t see any.
Like any big city -- and New Orleans is a big city -- there are problems.
And the hurricane of seven years past has still left a crippling impact.
But based on where we went.
And what we saw.
And what we eat.
I can’t wait to go back.
I had always heard that New Orleans is one of the most dangerous cities in the country.
“Keep your wallet in your front pocket.”
“Don’t cross that street.”
I heard all that stuff.... and more.
And I’m sure there are plenty of horror stories that would justify those concerns.
But fortunately I was not one of them.
The people we met were among the nicest I have ever encountered.
Ever!
I went on the trip with my friend, who is originally from New York.
And the Southern hospitality really pissed him off.
“It makes me want to be nice,” he said.  “And that makes me very uncomfortable.”
But he eventually got over it.

And started to feel right at home.

I was actually surprised how much the French Quarter reminded me of New York City.
A ton of restaurants.
Bars.
Shops.
It had everything a tourist would ever need.
Except a Starbucks.
Or McDonalds.
But plenty of bars.
PLENTY.
Our first night was spent at Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop.
The corner of Bourbon and St. Philip.
They claim to be “the oldest structure used as a bar in the United States.” 
At a quick glance it doesn’t seem like anything special.
But make sure you walk inside.
All the way to the dark room in the back, where the piano is located.
Before I knew it, it was 1:00am.
A guy who looked like Jack Sparrow and sounded like Dr. John was banging on the keys, belting out the tunes.
That was definitely the high point of the famed Bourbon Street for me.
The rest of the street was quite disgusting.
Way too many people.
Way too many strip bars.
(Did I just say that?)
Way too much... yuck.
But travel one block to the south and you’re on Royal Street.
A much more civilized way to spend the night.
Two more blocks to the south and you’re on Decatur.
The home of the beignet.
Cafe du Monde.
We made our obligatory trip there for our first breakfast.
Because that’s what you do.
But I gotta be honest, it didn’t make my mouth go AMAZING, as I hoped that it would.
As far as donuts go, it was fine.
But I’d rather have one of them “Hot Doughnuts Now” at Krispy Kreme.
Any day of the week.
Fortunately right up the street from Cafe du Monde was a place to wash it all down.
Evangeline.
The home of the Bacon Bloody Mary.
Bacon-infused Vodka with a slice of the real stuff inside.
It definitely tested my theory that bacon makes everything better.
But this was actually quite tasty.
Especially at 11 in the AM.
There is no shortage of culture in New Orleans.
No shortage of quirky either.
Take Jackson Square.
That’s between Royal and Decatur.
We walked by the square around midnight and saw no fewer than 25 palm readers.
Just sitting at their card table.
Under candlelight.
Waiting to read your palm.
We stared, but didn’t stop.
One of the readers had a sign that said -- “Do you know what I am thinking now?”
No.
But what I was thinking was ... this is really weird!
During the day at Jackson Square, the palm readers were replaced by a different group of quirk.
“Cemetery Tours.”
The horse and carriages were lined up on Decatur, trying to sell me on seeing the dead.
We passed on that as well.
But that was not the end of the street experience.
Not by far.
Night and day the area is overflowing with people.
Artists showing off their work.
“Poets for hire” sitting at their typewriter.
And more musicians than the LSU marching band.
The instrument of choice in New Orleans usually involves something brass.
And these guys can really blow.
Down and around the bend from Bourbon Street is Frenchmen Street.
That’s where the locals hang out.
Well, where they used to hang out.
Before us tourists found out how cool it is.
Tons of bars.
Duh!
A bunch of music clubs.
Impromptu bands on the street corner.
On the steps of a building.
Courtesy my iPhone
Everywhere you go, there is music.
Up until last week I really thought I loved music.
Then I went to New Orleans.
Let me tell you, that city LOVES music.
People spend eight hours a day at the Jazz Festival listening to music.
Then they go grab something quick to eat.
Probably fried and with crawfish in it.
Then it’s off to a local club to see another show.
Tipitina’s
Preservation Hall.
House of Blues.
Take your pick.
This city has more clubs than ten decks of cards.
The hot show while we were there was a band called Galactic.
Friday night at Rock N’ Bowl.
Actually make that Saturday morning.
2:00AM.
Don’t these people sleep?
Apparently not, the cover charge was $25 and the place was sold out.
My last night there we went to one of them late night/early morning shows.
This one at the Maple Leaf Bar.
Three bands, $20.
We made it in time for the 11:30 show.
11:30PM!
And that was the warm-up band for the 2:30 show.
This bar is no bigger than a basketball court.
A high school basketball court.
But these guys were cranking out music like we were at Madison Square Garden.
It was incredible.
I was arms distance away from some world class musicians who took me to a place I had never been.
For two hours.
By the end of the show, I was ready for a nap.
Which is all I had time for since I had to leave for the airport just three hours later.


Tuesday, May 1, 2012

New Orleans Food Festival

This is the first in a series of blogs from my recent trip to New Orleans for the Jazz Festival, where I did plenty of eating, drinking and being merry.  Oh, and there was music too.  Enjoy!
Home Sweet Home.
Back in the friendly confines after four days in the Big Easy.
Nawlins, Louisiana.
Home of the 43rd annual New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival.
And my first trip ever to the city that never sleeps.
Sorry New York.
But this place takes the cake.
It’s a cross between Manhattan, Las Vegas and Tijuana.
The last time I stayed up this late listening to people scream, my wife was in labor.
But I’m not complaining.
I had the time of my life. 
So where do I start?
The Bruce Springsteen concert.
The French Quarter.
The Midnight Palm Readers.
The 2am street musicians.
The 10am Bacon Bloody Mary.
That’s it.
I’ll start with food.

Was there really any other choice?
Ok, there are three things that I’ve always heard about New Orleans.
Music.

Food.
And it’s very dangerous.
BE CAREFUL!
Oh, it’s dangerous alright.
If you can survive four days in New Orleans without blocking one of your arteries you’ve really accomplished something.
I knew going in it was going to be a food fest.
But I honestly had no idea.
Most our daytime eating was done on the grounds of the Jazz Festival.
That’s where they have 70 different food vendors.
Offering more than 200 different types of food and drink.
And we are not talking corn dogs here people.
We are talking real food.
If you don’t believe me, maybe you’ll believe the list of food that we ate at the festival.
Remember, this is just the food that WE ate.
And you may want to sit down for this one:
  • Crawfish Bread (twice)
  • Cajun Jambalaya
  • Cochon de Lait Po-Boy
  • Guil’s Gator with Fried Jalapeños and Onions
  • Crawfish Sack
  • Oyster Patties
  • Crawfish Beignets
  • Fried Soft-Shell Crab Po-Boy
  • Creole File Gumbo
  • Trout Baquet
  • Grilled Chicken Livers with Pepper Jelly
  • Cracklins
  • Fried Sweet Potato Chips
  • Crawfish Monica
  • Sno-Ball
  • Handmade Ice Cream Sandwich
And a fresh-squeezed lemonade.
To wash it all down.
Now before you call Jenny Craig on me.
We did this over three days.
And there were two of us.
And if you think our list is long, you should see the list of the foods we didn’t try.
It wasn’t due to a lack of effort.
I literally had no more room left in my shirt.
And that’s saying something.
This place was off the charts.
Everything was affordable.
Everything was fresh.
And everything was absolutely delicious.

Ok, the chicken livers were a little sketchy.
For me.
But the security guard lady positioned right next to that tent loved them.
“It’ll make you curse your momma out,” she said.
How could I turn that down?
So I didn’t.
I must admit the first bite was pretty good.
Ok, kinda good.
But a few bites was all I could tolerate.

So I shared the rest with the security lady.
Which made both of us happy.
Sharing food at the festival seems to be a common practice.
Even if you don’t know the people.
I did it several times.
I saw this guy with a paper bag full of something.
You could see the grease stains coming through the bag.
Which got my mouth watering.
So I just had to ask what he was eating.
“Cracklins”, he said.
“Cracklins?”, I mumbled.
“YOU NEVER HAD CRACKLINS!”, he barked. 
“Where you from?”
So I told him.
And he quickly offered me a sample.
How could I pass?
So I bit into this crunchy, greasy, bite-sized piece of ... godknowswhat.
That’s when he informed me what I was eating.
According to cracklin.com:
(and yes, there really is a cracklin.com)
cracklin is a fried piece of pork fat with a small amount of attached skin.
With my most sincere apologies to my Jewish ancestors, I must admit the first bite was amazing.
Salty.
Crunchy.
Greasy.
Everything you want in a festival food.
Then I took another bite.
And the grossness kicked in.
I couldn’t imagine eating an entire order of these here cracklins.
But to my new friend of ten seconds, it was a bag full of heaven.
Thankfully I stopped there.
With that one piece.
Come one, FRIED... PORK... FAT... SKIN.
Who created this dish, Jack Kevorkian?
Now I’m not saying the rest of this food was healthy.
Au contraire, mon ami.
There was more fat on this menu than on the set of Mike & Molly.
And that’s saying something.
But when it comes to food, fat=flavor.
And the flavor in these dishes was absolutely incredible.
I could go on all day, but how about I give you my top three bites:

#3:  Crawfish Monica
At a quick glance, this mound of delight appears to be from the Mac & Cheese family.  But add the Crawfish and you are on your way.
According to the creators of this dish, they also add “a lot of heavy cream, butter and cajun seasoning.”
Really?




#2: Crawfish Bread
This is to Grilled Cheese what the Monica is to Mac & Cheese.
Same family, different twist.   
Amazing French bread, split in half with cheese and a bunch of crawfish shoved in the middle.
Every bite is better than the one before.
We loved it so much, we did it twice.



#1: Cochon de Lait Po-Boy
The literal translation of Cochon de Lait from French to English is... suckling-pig.
I don’t care what you call it.
I call it AMAZING.
While I was in New Orleans I had Cochon de Lait on my pizza.
I had it by itself.
And at the Jazz Festival, I had it on my Po-Boy.
This sandwich is made by Walker’s Southern Style BBQ and runs about $8.
I think.  
They season the meat, then do 12 hours of slow hickory smoking.
A few years ago, Esquire magazine named this sandwich one of 30 best sandwiches in the country.
What are the other 29?
The sandwich is smoked bone-in pork butt with cold cabbage and a homemade horseradish sauce.
On French bread.
What else.
I threw some hot sauce on there too.
Because that’s what you do in Louisiana.
Then I slowly enjoyed every bite.
I even texted a picture to my wife.
Who didn’t make the trip.
It wouldn’t be appropriate for me to print her response.
Now I wasn’t the only one to enjoy this treat.
Not hardly.
Every time I walked by their booth, the line was deep.
But within seconds, each and every person was enjoying a mouth full of suckling-pig.

Actually, they're right, Cochon de Lait sounds so much tastier.